At the World Durum and Pasta Forum 2025 in Rome, industry leaders, millers, and policymakers warned that small farm sizes, rising costs, and reliance on imports are putting pressure on Italy’s pasta supply chain. Calls for stronger contracts, quality incentives, and greater cooperation marked the debate on how to safeguard the country’s global pasta leadership. 

The second edition of the World Durum and Pasta Forum gathered more than 350 stakeholders at Palazzo Brancaccio in Rome to debate the state of the durum wheat and pasta sector. Pasta makers, millers, farmers, policymakers, and market analysts from Italy, North America, Turkey, North Africa, Kazakhstan, and the Black Sea region exchanged views on production, trade, competitiveness, and the challenges posed by climate change, farm incomes, and international competition.

Data released during the Forum confirmed Italy’s unrivaled position in global pasta. In 2024, the country produced over 4 million tonnes of pasta, up 5% from the previous year, and exported nearly 60% of its output to more than 200 countries, generating revenues of €8.7 billion. After wine, pasta remains Italy’s most exported agri-food product, representing almost half of the global pasta market.

Yet the numbers also highlight a structural challenge. Italy requires about 6 million tonnes of durum wheat annually, while the 2024 domestic harvest reached only 4.3 million tonnes. The shortfall was met entirely through imports. As several speakers stressed, the country’s durum self-sufficiency rate—around 58%—underscores both reliance on foreign supply and the need to enhance local quality and yields.

COMPETITION HEATS UP

While Italian pasta continues to be the global benchmark, over 75% of pasta is now produced outside Italy, with rivals such as Turkey, the U.S., and Canada improving quality and expanding exports. “The reality is that durum wheat is a global commodity. Many countries can now produce pasta of decent quality,” said Marina Mastromauro, CEO of Granoro Srl, a leading Apulian pasta producer founded in 1967. “What will make us distinctive compared to others is the strength of our link with our own territory—our sun, our soil, and our tradition.”

FARMERS STRUGGLING WITH COSTS

One of the most sensitive issues was the economic squeeze on Italian farmers. Reports indicated that durum wheat growers are receiving around €280 per tonne—below production costs. “This is not fair, nor is it sustainable for those who work the land every day,” warned Giuseppe Ferro, CEO of La Molisana, one of Italy’s top pasta exporters headquartered in Campobasso.

Small average farm sizes exacerbate the problem. As Vincenzo Divella, CEO of Divella S.p.A., one of Italy’s most iconic pasta brands dating back to 1890, noted: “In Puglia, the average farmer cultivates about 20 hectares, while in Canada it can be 300, 400, or even 500.” This structural disadvantage makes it difficult for Italian farmers to compete on costs, leaving many unable to cover their production expenses. Divella suggested that Italy may need to consider mechanisms similar to Turkey’s guaranteed minimum price system if local producers are to remain competitive.

QUALITY AS ITALY’S STRATEGIC EDGE

Despite these challenges, Italian industry leaders stressed that quality must remain the defining advantage of Italian pasta. Margherita Mastromauro, President of the Italian Pasta Makers of the Italian Food Union (Unione Italiana Food), reminded delegates: “Since 1967, we Italians have had a purity law that binds us to produce quality pasta. We gladly take on this responsibility to ensure consumers everywhere that the pasta they bring to the table is always good and safe.”

Forum participants emphasized investment in research, innovation, and contractual models rewarding higher protein content as key to sustaining Italy’s premium positioning. “Over the years, the requirements for semolina quality have evolved—from protein content, to gluten strength, to pesticides and residues. Each new demand is both a challenge and an opportunity,” said Francesco Casillo, CEO of Casillo S.p.A. Società Benefit, one of Italy’s largest durum wheat processors and traders. “The only sustainable way forward is to focus on quality. By doing so, we can increase farm incomes and preserve Italy’s reputation.”

STRUCTURAL SHIFTS IN THE INDUSTRY

The Forum also acknowledged the changing shape of the Italian pasta sector. In 1975, there were 750 pasta producers in Italy. Today, just 20 companies account for nearly 90% of the domestic and international market. This consolidation has raised expectations upstream, requiring farmers to deliver tighter specifications and better documentation on sustainability and traceability.

Vincenzo Martinelli, President of Italmopa, the national association representing Italy’s milling industry, underlined the need for investment in applied agronomy to lift yields and proteins: “By applying relatively simple technologies, we have raised average yields from 30 quintals per hectare to 50 or more, and protein levels from 12% to 15%. If we can do this more widely, we can reduce reliance on imports and create wealth for Italian farmers.”

CALLS FOR COOPERATION AND POLICY SUPPORT

Several speakers appealed for stronger collaboration across the supply chain and more supportive government measures. Proposals included multi-year contracts, tax credits for quality-enhancing investments, and a dedicated supply chain roundtable to valorize Italian durum wheat. “We must move from confrontation to cooperation,” Casillo urged. “What we need is a shared communication strategy, because we are all in the same boat. The goal is clear: to continue producing high-quality pasta and to increase exports.”

The Forum highlighted both the vulnerabilities—import dependence, small farm structures, volatile prices—and the enduring strengths of the industry: tradition, quality, and innovation. As one speaker concluded, “Italian pasta is not only a food product—it is a heritage. Preserving that heritage requires fair returns for farmers, strong partnerships with millers, and continuous innovation to keep Italy’s pasta on top of the world.”